Method of cutting patterns for garments



(No Model.)

0. A. AMELANG. METHOD OF GUTTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS. No. 466,111. IPatented Dec. 29,1891.

INVEN'TEIIRL- %/xm/M,

UNITED STATES PATENT, OFFICE.

CHARLES A. AMELANG, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

METHOD OF CUTTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 466,111, dated December29, 1891'.

Application filed August 4:, 1891. Serial No. 401,640. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES A. AMELANG, of Baltimore, Maryland, haveinvented oer tain Improvements in Methods of OuttingPatterns forGarments and in the Patterns Eniployed in the Same, of which thefollowingis a specification.

In the description of the said invention which follows reference is madeto the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, in which- Figure 1is a view of a sheet of paper illustrating the first steps which aretaken in drafting a pattern of a garment-such as a coat-accordin g tothe sizes obtained from the person to be fitted; and Fig 2 illustratesthe completed patterns. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, except thatthe patterns are difierently placed, as will hereinafter fully appear.

WVith the methods of cutting garments now generally used difficulty isexperienced in effecting a proper fit around the arm and at the waist,owing, principally, to the fact that in forming the seams which unitethe fronts with the sides the original curved line under the arm isdrawn down, and the point formed by the intersection of the said curvedline with the line at the rear of the side piece falls below thecorresponding point in the back, and in effecting a compromisedposition, so as to remedy this defect, the garment is drawn out of shapeand an accurate fit cannot be had.

Referring to Fig. 1, A is a sheet of paper upon which are marked theconstruction-lines a, b, 0, 61,8, f, and g, which are platted accordingto measurements taken from the person to be fitted. This sheet is nowout by the lines B and G into the unfinished patterns of the front,side, and back, (represented, respectively, by D, E, and F.) It will beseen that the curved line G, which represents the line of the armhole ofthe back pattern, is continued by the construction line g, which is thetheoretical line of the armhole in the side pattern and before mypresent invention was adopted as a part of the cutting-line. The frontand side patterns are now out, as shown by the dotted lines it and 2',to reduce the width of the same at the bottom, and also to give a curvedseam instead of a straight one when the two parts are united, and thearmhole-line I in the front pattern completed, as shown in Fig. 2.

Referring again to Fig. 2, the front and side patterns are lapped at j,which brings the construction-line c of the side pattern out ofalignment with the portions of the same line on the front and back, andthrows the curved construction-line g, which, as before stated,represented the theoretical armholeline down out of its originalposition. Now, taking the line G as a starting-curve, the line H, whichis the proper armhole-line of the side pattern, is out so as to connectwith and form a continuation of the lines G and I, which completes thearmhole. The new line It is now drawn, but merely for the purpose. ofadjusting the side pattern to show how the theoretical armhole-line hasbeen modified in practice. (See Fig. 3, which shows the patterns in thesame relative positions which they occupied in Fig. 1.) By anexamination of this figure it will be seen that in cutting the sidepattern an extension J has been left thereon.

Referring again to Fig. 2, it will be seen that if the points a; 00 hadbeen brought together the garment would have been out of shape, and thisdefect could not have been remedied by any subsequent manipulation ofthe parts, as the side pattern would have been too small.

It will be understood that the line H could not have been laid off byany systemof measurement other than the one described, as until the sideseams are cut and the edges are lapped, as shown in Fig. 2, the lengthand curve of the extension J could not be ascertained.

I claim as my invention The improved method of cutting patterns forgarments herein described, which consists in cutting the material of thepatterns into unfinished front, side, and back sections, then cuttingthe portion ,of the armhole in the front and back sections, then lappingthe front and side sections, and then cutting out the lower portion ofthe armhole in the side section to form a continuation of the armholeportions of the front and back sections, substantially as specified.

CHARLES A. AMELANG.

Witnesses:

WM. T. HOWARD, J NO. T. MADDOX.

